The Science Behind Natural Beauty and Skincare
1. Introduction: The Science Behind Natural Beauty and Skincare
Natural beauty and skincare is a term that has gained significant popularity in recent years, but its journey goes back a long way. In many ancient cultures, the use of natural ingredients and remedies for beauty and skincare was a common practice. On the other hand, the importance of natural beauty in the past was associated with cultural ideologies.
For instance, in the Victorian era in the British Empire, naturalness, modesty, and morality were attached to all sorts of cultural practices, including ideals of beauty 1. During this time, women, irrespective of their social class, used the same home remedies for beauty and skincare.
Similarly, in traditional Chinese culture, a flour-like, white powder was frequently used by wealthy women to enhance their facial beauty. However, over the years, the ideals of beauty changed, and women in many cultures began to embrace whitening lotions, facial masks, and other chemically-formulated cosmetic products.
Beauty standards, like everything else in society, are subject to change over time. This change in definition occurs in cyclic forms and is usually influenced by external and instant needs in society and industries. Today there is a change in the perception of beauty that comes from within, internally healthy skin, embracing the flaws, being confident, and ultimately being comfortable in one’s skin 2.
As a part of this holistic approach, mainstream skin science companies, beauty brands, and luxury skincare brands in the industry have embraced the natural, organic, and sustainable trend in their products, production methods, and marketing strategies. This is causing a rising concern about assessing the authenticity or actual naturalness and sustainability of many newly launched products in the industry.
In this context, discussing the opportunities and challenges with respect to naturality in beauty and skincare does not merely hold academic interest, but could arguably be one of the greatest current social, economic, and cultural issues of our time.
1.1. Historical Perspectives
Traditional Natural Beauty and Skincare Practices
For centuries, men and women have relied on nature to maintain their natural beauty. Vedic scriptures from ancient India refer to specific plants, herbs, and grains that can be applied to nourish and rejuvenate the skin, thus promoting natural beauty 3. In ancient Egypt, records indicate practices such as washing and massaging with oil, milk baths, and applying lead ore to the eyes for enhancement. Such practices testified that the philosophy of skincare existed as early as 4000 B.C. 4.
In western regions, materials such as porcupine quills have been found, which indicate the simple processes of skincare involved in helping women enhance their beauty. However, with entry into a materialistic society, women mostly began to rely on beauty parlors and other cosmetic industries to help improve their beauty. Many of the herbal options present in nature have been passed down from generational practice to another, but some fall prey to harm from cosmetics due to the utilization of harmful substances in the skincare process.
1.2. Rise of Natural Beauty Trends
In the past decade, there has been a tremendous increase in interest in natural beauty. Both established brands and newcomers to the beauty market are scrambling to create products that tout their natural ingredients or “green” production methods 5.
This trend towards natural beauty products is not limited to an age group or demographic—young girls and women in their twenties are watching Youtube beauty gurus and Instagram influencers preach about how they turned their skin around with a natural skincare routine, and elderly women are swapping their overpriced department store products for DIY face masks with ingredients found in their kitchen.
As interest in the safety and efficacy of chemicals and artificial preservatives is heightened through public commentary and research, consumers are turning to the natural world for solutions.
The beauty industry is no stranger to fads. From plastic surgery and botox to foundation that promises to turn its user’s skin into porcelain, marketing schemes attract a slew of followers and then fade into obscurity. Most recently, the rise of natural beauty trends stems from a growing backlash against the artificial and synthetically produced—a sociocultural climate illuminated by a wider phenomenon of “going green” 1.
Oil spills, pesticides, toxic metals, and chemicals created in the name of beauty, industrialization, or science have turned consumers away from the artificially manufactured and synthetic, and to the naturally occurring and organic.
2. Understanding Skin Anatomy and Physiology
Most people think that skin is composed just of a few layers, which often brings concerning issues on how to choose a proper skincare product. Therefore, a solid foundation of skin anatomy and physiology is important to enhance the understanding of these problems, especially for those with concerns about the skin or are just beginning to use skincare products.
This brief mini-review provides, first, the very fundamental knowledge of skin, including the anatomical structure with its layers and physiological basics with its very crucial functions 6.
As a barrier organ between the inner body and external environment, skin uncovers so many visible body features. Anatomically, skin (derma) is composed of three layers, which are, from the outermost to innermost, epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis or subcutaneous 7.
The epidermis is a protective layer of stratified squamous epithelium mainly composed of keratinocytes, and other cell types including Langerhans cells (epidermal antigen-presenting cells), melanocytes (pigment-producing cells), and Merkel cells (mechanoreceptors) can also be found in this epidermal layer.
Keratinocytes, the most abundant cell type in the epidermis, proliferate and differentiate from the basal layer, which is the innermost epidermal layer in contact with the dermis, move upward, and finally become flattened corneocytes with keratin- and lipid-enriched composition in the outermost epidermis, known as the stratum corneum (SC).
Such densely packed cornified cells and lamellar lipid envelopes not only enhance the dermal structural integrity but also form an impermeable barrier to minimize the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the skin.
2.1. Layers of the Skin
Focusing specifically on the layers of the skin, skin fears are described in detail. Skin is a biological system in constant change. It undergoes a high renovation and tissue elimination compared to hair and nails. Basically, skin is a multilayered structure, which has a very thin exterior layer.
Multi-layered tissue designs provide high performance and are found in multiple biological systems, such as bladders, blood vessels, and skin. Skin is a complex biological organ involved in processes associated with wound healing, skin hydration, and the regulation of body temperature.
On a large scale, skin consists of epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis 8. Histological analysis shows that skin generally is considered to be a multilayer tissue consisting of the stratum corneum (SC), epidermis, and dermis. The epidermis is an avascular tissue that consists of 95% keratinocytes.
The dermis, serving as the primary load-bearing component of the skin in tension, consists of aggregated collagen bundles, elastic fibers, and an extrafibrillar matrix with a prominent amount of water. The hypodermis, mainly composed of subcutaneous fat tissue, connects the skin to other tissues while regulating body temperature.
Currently, scientific and technological advancements have the potential to continuously fashion the skin. Visually and mechanically bio-engineered tissues have been fabricated. Non-mesenchymal stem progenitor skin cells and more direct routes of skin cellular reprogramming have been implemented for clinically cosmetic applications.
Forensic techno-skin tissue is also being implemented in forensic science systems. Among these technologies, tissue classification is a common task. In the context of skin classification, histological analysis of skin samples at the microscopic scale highlights the homogeneously distributed keratinocytes in the epidermis, which reside underneath the SC, and the textured collagen-fiber networks in the dermis, which are not uniformly distributed.
2.2. Functions of the Skin
The skin is the body’s largest organ with an average surface area of 1.85 m². It is composed of three tissue layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layer, each layer with a distinct composition and function. The skin protects against mechanical, thermal, and chemical damage, dehydration, UV radiation, and microbial invasion.
It plays an essential role in water and electrolyte homeostasis, thermoregulation, perception, and also produces sex pheromones. The skin contributes to the appearance of individuals. Immune and inflammatory alterations of the skin may affect the whole body. The skin structure is altered in several diseases such as acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, vitiligo, basal cell carcinoma, or malignant melanoma 7.
The skin is not only the human body’s largest organ but is also a complex and continuously renewing structure composed by different cell types. The skin forms a physical, immunological, and biochemical barrier between the internal milieu of the body and the external environment.
Beyond its obvious protective function, the skin performs a variety of other biological, physiological, and sociological functions 9. Skin has been more specifically recognized for its key roles in insulation and thermoregulation, heating and cooling perception, sensation of touch, and texture and pain perception. Additional important functions of skin include social and sexual communication, pheromone production and transfer, immune reaction, and absorption of various substances.
3. Benefits and Efficacy of Natural Ingredients
Natural ingredients have a plethora of benefits, one of which is its high bioavailability and being more easily absorbed in human skin. Non-natural chemicals often contain high molecular weights preventing them from absorbing in the skin; hence its efficacy would be compromised.
For natural ingredients, such as aloe vera, the low molecular weight allows the skin to absorb it better 10. Additionally, chemical actives have been shown to cause allergic reactions and excessive irritation to the skin. For example, if non-natural ingredients containing high doses of vitamin C were applied to the skin, it can cause skin irritation. Alternatively, natural ingredients such as green tea extract have been tested to provide anti-irritant effects.
The skin is the largest organ in the human body. It acts as a protective barrier to the environment, first contact for invaders, and prevents excessive water loss. It is prone to environmental insults, such as the sun and climate, which leads to premature aging or undesirable effects such as skin cancer.
The skin undergoes many changes as it ages, such as loss of suppleness, glow, and dryness. Fortunately, nature has resources that are rich in antioxidants and provide anti-aging effects. Natural ingredients such as vitamin C have been shown to restore the antioxidant defense mechanism of the skin, prevent the degradation of collagen, and increase collagen synthesis 11.
Vitamin E is another antioxidant commonly used in skincare, and it protects lipids against oxidative damage by scavenging free radicals. It effectively inhibits UVB-induced erythema and sunburn cell formation. Lastly, vitamin A is converted by enzymes in the skin to its active form retinoic acid. Retinoic acid has been proven to prevent UV-induced skin damage and its anti-aging properties have been investigated extensively over the years.
3.1. Antioxidants and Anti-Aging Properties
Natural skincare advocates utilize potent natural ingredients as alternatives and competitors to aggressive skincare treatments. Among a multitude of factors, antioxidant (AO) activity is known for its anti-aging properties, which translates well in growing popularity of health and skincare products containing antioxidant-rich ingredients.
Oxidative stress is known to be one of the major contributors of the aging process, also known as the “free radical theory of aging.” Of salient importance is the stratum corneum’s (SC) elevated sensitivity to various oxidative stress-producing factors, including UV exposure, pollutants, low humidity, and extremes in temperature and pH. This skin layer is the first site to be targeted by free radicals, indicative of a large oxidative burden inflicted on the skin upon exposure to exogenous factors 11.
Notably, the increasing evidence demonstrating the instrumental role of cell-specific cytokines, exosomal lncRNAs, and the gut-microbiota-brain-skin axis in skin aging foster a new understanding of cellular communication, which has been neglected in previous work primarily focusing on intrinsic skin aging events.
A schematic summarizing the natural compounds that combat skin aging, including their targets, is also included herein. A complex skin aging mechanism is orchestrated by the interplaying of many endogenous factors in keratinocytes, fibroblasts, sebaceous, and epidermal cells as well as skin appendages, all of which respond to external factors like UV, IR, pollution, and smoking, leading to the loss or destruction of skin structural proteins, lipids, or sugars.
Soybean glyceollins stimulate the activation of p53, and its target genes p21 and GADD45 are upregulated in a dose-dependent and time-dependent manner with concurrent G1 arrest in UVB-induced skin keratinocytes. It has also been found that glyceollins and EGCG accumulation could significantly inhibit MMP-1 and COX-2 activity in fibroblast cells, thus preventing dermal collagen degradation 1.
3.2. Moisturizing and Hydrating Effects
In addition to cleansing, which refers to removing dirt and contaminants, skin care offers moisturizing to maintain hydrated skin as well as creamy sunscreens and phospholipid-based makeup removers that keep skin moisturized instead of drying it up after cleansing. To maintain healthy and radiant skin, moisturizing and hydration are important, but it is not easy to keep the stratum corneum continuously moist.
There are many mechanisms leading to dehydration of the skin, including transepidermal water loss by occlusive or dermatologic agents, hot, dry environments, chronic bathing and washing, use of irritating skin care products, and aging effects. That is, dehydrated skin exhibits several symptoms such as roughness, scaling, fissuring, redness, pruritus, tightness, and irritation 12.
Moisturization refers to a process of treating dry skin with moisturizing ingredients to restore the skin condition and makes it smooth, soft, and flexible. In general, moisturizing ingredients can be classified according to different criteria, including their natural occurrence in skin or non-naturally occurring (in nature), penetration depth, size, type of molecular, and differences in skin hydration mechanism.
Hydrating effects refer to the capability of ingredients to help retain moisture components in skin. Ingredients with a good hydration effect retain water in the stratum corneum, thus indirectly influencing the water component of deeper layers, such as the epidermis/dermis 13. The swelling of the outermost corneocytes attributable to the moisturizing or hydrating effect ultimately leads to a smooth skin surface and improves skin texture.
The swelling of corneocytes also indirectly reduces the subsequent thickness of the upper stratum corneum, which reduces the skin aging phenomenon such as roughness, dryness, and itchiness of the skin. There are many natural ingredients with those efficacy.
4. Formulating Effective Natural Skincare Products
Formulating natural skincare products requires more than simply purchasing natural ingredients and putting them together. Effective products must address the target issues, whether they are for skin, hair, or body. There are many misconceptions about natural ingredients and products. Some ingredients already have a solid reputation, while others are being newly discovered.
Each ingredient has a specific function; however, if improper derivatives, concentrations, or combinations are used, they will yield no results or even worsen the situation. The incorrect application or choice of some ingredients can lead to irreversible issues 14.
Eventually, most individuals will have to address issues caused by the aging process and their lifestyle. It is crucial to develop natural skincare products that effectively meet these needs. Currently, most chemical-based products cause more damage than the skin itself and are hazardous to general health. Natural skincare products do exist, but one must be cautious, as not all of them are effective.
In fact, most of them are just mixtures of already known oils or extracts that merely provide moisturizing effects. Regardless of the chosen ingredients, it is essential to ensure there are no harmful additives. It is possible to harm the skin, and in some cases, it will take years to recover 1.
4.1. Key Ingredients and Their Functions
Natural skincare products rely heavily on their composition. Skin typologies, functionality, and active ingredients determine the extent to which the product is compatible with the user and effective in addressing their concerns and achieving skin balance 15. Emulsified preparations with an oily phase, water phase, and emulsifiers are at the heart of state-of-the-art skincare products.
Oily phases may be complex mixtures of permanently liquid plant oils, waxy or solid plant or animal biogenic substrates, and synthetic oils derived from petroleum. This complexity often aims to improve the feeling on the skin and the compatibility of the emulsion with differing environmental conditions.
The water phase contains natural water or hydrosol, active biogenic extracts, preservatives, and water-soluble thickening agents. Emulsifiers and stabilizers are necessary to ensure emulsions remain stable as long as intended. Clean skincare products typically contain natural stable emulsifiers such as beeswax, candelilla wax, or emulsifier arrays with both a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic component.
The definition of natural emulsifiers differs according to the intended market and the regulatory system under consideration. In the European Union, natural emulsifiers must be listed in the national pharmacopoeia 1.
Key Ingredients and Their Functions
Products whose ingredient lists remain relatively simple include a carrier oil or butters as the sole active ingredient with no emulsifiers or preservatives. Natural oils are complex mixtures with varying compositions that influence biophysical properties such as moisturization ability, penetration, or occlusiveness.
Skin compatibility, dominant fatty acid composition, and the presence of phytochemicals in oils account for their differing skin effects. However, the absence of emulsifiers severely limits the skin application of unifer products to the skin. Emulsifiers and stabilizers often need to be added before mixing with water to avoid phase separation.
Many high-quality products were introduced prior to 2012 with no emulsifiers. Some involve a dual-phase product with oil on the surface acting as a barrier to water evaporation and protecting the natural moisturizing factor from being washed away during cleansing.
Others like extra virgin olive oil were light yellow fluid consistency products, but they became rare due to echoing the excessive use of water. Natural emulsified creams and lotions are composed of an oily and water phase with emulsifiers, but preservatives are required to control microbial development when water is introduced into the formulation.
4.2. Avoiding Harmful Additives
In the quest for radiant and healthy skin, there is no need to overload it with a complicated cocktail of harsh ingredients created in a laboratory. These additives can irritate skin, provoke allergies or intolerances or produce a long-term drug dependency. Natural beauty products are made with care and affection, high-quality active ingredients of botanical origin, no artificial fragrances derived from petroleum, no petrochemicals, and no nanotechnology. No chemical emulsifiers and preservatives with a disturbing effect on delicate skin flora and microbiota 16.
No silicones that mechanically cover skin with an artificial layer and block its natural function. Natural products are complex mixtures of diverse chemical compounds, and consumers should be aware that they can contain hundreds, if not thousands of different chemicals. These plant ingredients may also be not the safest ones as it looks.
Some natural oils can induce intolerances, some phytoestrogens might promote tumor growth and some essential oils may irritate skin or have a toxic effect. All raw materials used in products should be safe, both for consumers and environment, and of a superior quality which guarantees the highest effectiveness.
Also Read: The Science of Effective Skincare Understanding and Applying Key Concepts
5. Consumer Trends and Sustainability in the Beauty Industry
Consumer trends within the beauty and fashion industry have evolved. Since the pandemic, consumers have shifted from being trend-driven and novelty-driven, to more sober and utilitarian. Brands must now execute more extensive form-giving in their approach to concepts and product development.
Consumers have adapted to more sustainable forms and shapes, given the consequences of the pandemic, and its socio-political impact 17. In response, brands have developed a defensive posture concerning their aesthetics, ensuring that forms are stable, recognizable, and therefore more trustworthy. The consumer is establishing a relationship with the brand’s ‘soul’, ensuring that products are human-centered and foster emotional attributes, not just novelty.
There is also a growing demand for psychologically driven fashion items. As consumers adapt their aesthetics due to social pressure, it is necessary to put the same effort into closing the emotional gap, emphasizing wellness and beauty’s psychological aspects rather than physical ones 18.
The beauty industry is committed to helping build a sustainable world. They believe in creating sustainably and ethically sourced beauty products that utilize safe and natural ingredients to nurture and preserve the Earth’s resources. Everyone has the right to use safe products.
To keep the planet healthy and beautiful, it is imperative to get involved with companies that share the same vision and commit to reducing the ecological footprint. Natural beauty is beauty in harmony with nature. Natural families worldwide use beauty ingredients and bundles packed with nutrients provided by nature. These formulations use safe ingredients and free-from packages that are pure, natural, wholesome, uncomplicated, and simple as possible.
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